El-Jazzar Mosque

Listen for a moment. Under the arches, the noise of the old city softens. The flagstones are smooth and cool, polished by countless bare feet and sandals. Somewhere above you, pigeons shift on a ledge. Palm fronds move in the sea breeze, and the air smells faintly of salt and dust. Ahead of you, a green dome rises over white stone, and a slim minaret climbs into the sky. You are standing in the courtyard of the El-Jazzar Mosque, in the heart of old Acre.

This mosque carries the name of the man who built it — Ahmed Pasha al-Jazzar. He was an Ottoman governor who ruled this coast in the late eighteenth century. The Ottoman Empire was the vast Turkish-led state that controlled much of the Middle East for centuries. Al-Jazzar made Acre his capital. He rebuilt its walls, its markets and its public buildings. This mosque was the jewel of that building programme, and it was completed in the early 1780s.

Now, a detail most visitors miss. The word al-Jazzar is not a family name. It is a nickname, and it means "the butcher" in Arabic. Accounts from the period describe him as a ruthless and frightening ruler. Some stories about his cruelty are certainly exaggerated, and others are hard to verify. But the nickname followed him all his life. It is strange to think that such a peaceful courtyard carries the name of a man known for fear.

Al-Jazzar's greatest moment came in 1799. That year, Napoleon Bonaparte marched up the coast from Egypt and laid siege to Acre. The siege lasted around two months. With help from a British naval squadron and an engineer who had once studied alongside Napoleon, the defenders held the walls. Napoleon finally retreated. It was one of his rare defeats, and it ended his dream of an empire in the East. The governor who built this mosque was the man who stopped him.

Look up at the building itself. The style is Ottoman, inspired by the great mosques of Istanbul. A large central dome sits over the prayer hall, and smaller domes and arches gather around it. The dome is painted green, a colour closely linked with Islam. The minaret is tall and pencil-thin, with a balcony near the top. From there, before loudspeakers, a man called the muezzin would sing the call to prayer across the rooftops.

The mosque is often described as the largest in Israel outside Jerusalem. Its scale makes more sense when you remember Acre's importance in al-Jazzar's day. This was a busy port. Cotton, grain and other goods passed through it to Europe. The governor wanted a mosque that showed his power and his wealth to every merchant and traveller who arrived by sea. Even today, the dome and minaret are among the first things you see when you approach the old city.

Walk slowly around the edge of the courtyard. The arcades are lined with small rooms behind the arches. These rooms once housed students of religion and travellers who needed a place to rest. A mosque in this era was more than a place of prayer. It was also a school, a shelter and a gathering place. Notice the old columns in these arcades. According to local tradition, many were taken from ancient ruins along the coast, including Roman Caesarea.

In the courtyard, look for the small domed fountain. This is where worshippers wash before prayer. The ritual washing of hands, face and feet is called wudu, and it is an important part of Muslim prayer. The water, the shade and the soft sound of footsteps make this corner feel calm. Near the fountain, you may also spot a sundial. Before clocks were common, it helped mark the times of the five daily prayers.

Here is a second surprise. Beneath your feet lies a much older layer of Acre. Before the Ottomans, this city was a major stronghold of the Crusaders — the European knights who came to the Holy Land in the Middle Ages. Al-Jazzar built his mosque on top of Crusader-era structures. Large underground water cisterns lie below the courtyard area. So the stone you walk on rests over vaults built by knights several centuries earlier.

On one side of the mosque stands a small, quiet building with a domed roof. This is the tomb of al-Jazzar himself. His adopted son and successor, Suleiman Pasha, is buried here too. It is a simple structure compared to the mosque. Through the grilles you can see the graves inside. Al-Jazzar chose to rest beside the building that carries his name, in the city he defended against Napoleon.

The mosque also holds a treasured relic. Tradition says it keeps a few hairs from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad. Locals say the relic is shown to worshippers only on special occasions, such as the end of the holy month of Ramadan. Most visitors will never see it. But knowing it is here helps explain why this building matters so deeply to Muslims in Acre and across the region.

Remember that this is a living mosque. People still come here to pray every day. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times, and modest dress is expected. Shoulders and knees should be covered, and women may be asked to cover their hair. You will remove your shoes before entering the prayer hall. Inside, look at the carpets, the hanging lamps and the painted decoration on the walls and dome. Move quietly, and give space to anyone at prayer.

The mosque is part of the Old City of Acre, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Step outside the gate and you are back in the narrow lanes. The covered markets are close by, with their smells of spice, coffee and fresh fish. The Crusader halls and the sea walls are only a short walk away. Every layer of the city is visible within a few minutes of this courtyard — Crusader, Ottoman and modern, all side by side.

Before you leave, stand once more in the centre of the courtyard. Look at the green dome against the sky, and the minaret above the palms. Feel the stone under your feet, and think of the cisterns below it. A feared governor built this place, and he defended it against one of history's great generals. Yet what remains today is quiet. As you walk back into the lanes, listen for the next call to prayer rising over the rooftops of Acre.