Alnwick Castle

Stand still for a moment and listen. Gravel shifts underfoot, a gull calls overhead, and somewhere below the walls the River Aln runs quietly over its stones. The air here in Northumberland, in the far north-east of England, often carries a cool edge, even in summer. Ahead of you rises a long run of grey-gold sandstone, with towers, battlements and narrow windows. This is Alnwick Castle. And unlike most castles in England, it is not a ruin. Someone still lives here.

The castle has been the home of the Percy family for more than seven centuries. The family later became the Dukes of Northumberland, and the current Duke and his family still use part of the castle as a private home. That makes Alnwick one of the largest inhabited castles in England, often described as second only to Windsor. So as you walk through the courtyards, remember that this is a working household as well as a historic site. Behind some of these walls, ordinary family life carries on.

The story begins soon after the Norman Conquest of 1066, when the new Norman rulers built strongholds across the north. The first defences here date from the late eleventh century. At that time, this was dangerous country. The border with Scotland lies not far to the north, and for centuries the region saw raids, sieges and open war. A castle at Alnwick guarded a key crossing of the river and the road between the two kingdoms.

In 1309, the castle passed into the hands of the Percys, and the family set to work. Over the fourteenth century they turned it into a formidable border fortress. Much of the strong outline you see today comes from that period. The Percys became one of the most powerful families in the north of England. They raised armies, fought the Scots, and sometimes challenged the English crown itself. Their loyalty mattered to kings, and their rebellions worried them.

The most famous Percy of all was Sir Henry Percy, known as Harry Hotspur. The nickname came from his speed and fierce temper in battle. He fought against the Scots, then turned against King Henry the Fourth, and was killed in battle in 1403. Two centuries later, William Shakespeare made him a character in his play Henry the Fourth, Part One. So a real man from this castle walks the stage to this day, as a bold, impatient young warrior.

Now look up at the battlements, especially around the gatehouse. Along the tops of the walls, you may notice small stone figures, standing like soldiers on guard. Many visitors walk past without seeing them. These figures were placed there to make the walls look busy and defended from a distance. Today they give the skyline an odd, slightly theatrical character. Try counting how many you can spot as you walk around the outer walls.

The gateway itself deserves a slow look. The entrance is protected by a barbican, which is a fortified outer gate built in front of the main gatehouse. Any attacker had to push through a narrow, enclosed passage while defenders fought from above. Stand in that passage for a moment. Notice how the walls close in, how the light dims, and how the sound of your footsteps changes. The design was meant to make people feel exposed, and it still works.

By the eighteenth century, the border wars were long over, and the castle had fallen into poor repair. A new generation of the family, now holding the title of Duke, began to restore it. The architect Robert Adam created elegant interiors in a romantic Gothic style. Out in the wider estate, the landscape designer Capability Brown reshaped the park, with sweeping lawns, trees and views. The fortress slowly became a stately home, though it kept its warlike face.

Then came a second great change in the nineteenth century. The Fourth Duke decided the castle needed a stronger medieval look outside and greater grandeur inside. The architect Anthony Salvin rebuilt parts of the exterior, while the State Rooms were remade in the style of the Italian Renaissance. That means rich carved woodwork, painted and gilded ceilings, and walls hung with fine paintings. It is a surprise for many visitors. They expect cold stone and armour, and they find something close to a palace in Florence or Rome.

Inside those State Rooms, take your time. The family collection includes paintings, furniture and porcelain gathered over generations. Look at the ceilings as much as the walls, because some of the finest craftsmanship is above your head. Look closely at the doors and the carved details around them, too. Every surface was planned as part of one rich whole. Notice the quiet as well. Thick walls and heavy fabrics soften the sound, even when the rooms are full of people.

For many visitors, though, Alnwick has a second, more modern fame. The castle appeared as Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films. The wide, open lawn of the Outer Bailey, the outer courtyard inside the walls, is where young wizards had their first flying lesson on screen. Today, families still gather there for broomstick training sessions. The castle also appeared in Christmas episodes of the television drama Downton Abbey. Film crews came here for the same reason medieval lords did. The place simply looks like a castle should.

As you move between the courtyards, watch for the family emblem. The Percy lion, a lion with a stiff, straight tail, appears in carvings and decorations around the estate. You will also find it on the bridge over the Aln. Once you notice it, you will keep seeing it. It is a quiet reminder that this place has always been about one family, and its long effort to show its power and its identity in stone.

Before you leave, walk to a point where you can see the castle from the river side. From there, the old border fortress and the later stately home blend into one long silhouette. Notice how the stone changes colour as the light moves across it, from grey in shade to warm honey in sun. Listen again for the river, the birds and the voices in the courtyard. Seven hundred years of one family's story stand in front of you... and the lights in some of those windows still belong to someone at home.