Motsameta Monastery

On a narrow promontory of rock, high above a red-tinged river winding through a wooded gorge, a small monastery clings to the cliff, one of the most beautifully sited holy places in the country. This is Motsameta, a tiny monastery near Kutaisi whose setting and story draw a steady stream of pilgrims and visitors.

The monastery is dedicated to two brothers, nobles of the region, who, by tradition, were martyred by Arab invaders many centuries ago for refusing to give up their faith. Their relics are kept in a shrine within the church, and the monastery's name remembers them as martyrs.

A long-held tradition draws pilgrims to the shrine: many crawl beneath the raised reliquary that holds the brothers' remains three times while making a wish or a prayer, a small, intimate ritual at the heart of the little church.

The setting is the first thing that strikes every visitor. The monastery sits on a spur of rock ringed almost entirely by the gorge of the river below, so it seems to float above the wooded valley, with steep drops on three sides.

The river beneath is known by a name meaning red water, from an old story that its colour recalls blood shed in battle, which ties the dramatic landscape to the martyrs the monastery honours.

The church itself is small and intimate, far more modest than the great cathedral and academy nearby, and that human scale, set against the grandeur of the gorge, is part of its appeal.

The monastery is close to the larger and more famous Gelati, only a short distance through the hills, so the two are almost always visited together, the grand academy and the tiny clifftop shrine.

Because of its setting, Motsameta is also simply a wonderful viewpoint, with the wooded gorge falling away below and the hills of the region spreading out beyond, a place to pause as much as to pray.

It remains a working monastery with a small community, so alongside the visitors you will find the quiet routines of monastic life, and the usual respect for a place of worship is asked.

The approach, by a small road through the hills and woods above Kutaisi, is part of the experience, and the monastery is an easy addition to a trip taking in Gelati and the hilltop cathedral.

A few practical notes. Entry is free; dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and women may need a head covering, often available at the gate. Take care near the cliff edges, and combine it with Gelati nearby.

Stand at the edge of the rock, with the church behind and the red river curling through the gorge far below, and the drama of Motsameta's setting speaks for itself. When you drive back through the hills, the image of the tiny monastery on its cliff stays with you.