Ivolginsky Datsan

Listen first. A low wooden rumble rolls across the courtyard, then a small bell rings at the top of each turn. That sound comes from prayer wheels, spun by hand, one after another, by people walking slowly past you. The air here is dry and clear. Around you, the steppe opens wide, and low mountains line the horizon. Golden roof tips catch the light. You are standing in the Ivolginsky Datsan, a Buddhist monastery on the edge of the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga, in the Republic of Buryatia.

A datsan is a Buddhist monastery in the Tibetan tradition. Here, that tradition reaches far north, into Siberia. The Buryats are a Mongolic people who live around Lake Baikal. Over several centuries, many Buryats adopted Tibetan Buddhism, with its scriptures, its chanting, and its lamas. A lama is a teacher and monk. So the monastery in front of you is the product of a long journey. Ideas travelled from Tibet, through Mongolia, and across the steppe to this valley.

Now for the first surprise. This monastery opened in the mid-1940s, near the end of the Second World War. That was a hard time for religion in the Soviet Union. In the 1930s, almost every Buddhist monastery in Buryatia was closed. Many lamas were arrested, and many temples were destroyed. Then, during the war, the state allowed a small number of religious communities to reopen. Ivolginsky was one of them. For decades, it was among the very few working Buddhist monasteries in the entire country.

Think about what that meant. For Buddhists across the Soviet Union, this valley became a centre of gravity. Pilgrims came from far away. Foreign delegations were brought here to show that religion was tolerated. The monks kept their rituals going under close watch. Inside these walls, texts were read and ceremonies were held when most of the old monasteries were empty or gone. When you watch the monks today, you are seeing a line of practice that never fully broke.

Before you go further, notice how people move. Visitors and pilgrims walk around the monastery clockwise, keeping the temples on their right. This is a sign of respect in Tibetan Buddhism. Follow the flow of people, and spin each prayer wheel as you pass it. Many wheels hold rolled paper inside, printed with mantras. A mantra is a short sacred phrase. Believers say that each turn of a wheel sends the prayer out into the world, as if it had been spoken.

Look at the buildings themselves. The main temples mix several styles. You will see sloping roofs with upturned corners, which recall Chinese and Mongolian temples. You will see bright colours: deep red, yellow, green, and blue. Look up at the roof lines for golden ornaments. A common symbol is a wheel with two deer lying beside it. It recalls the Buddha's first teaching, which tradition says he gave in a deer park. Take a moment with these details. They repay a slow look.

Next, the strangest story of this place. It concerns a lama named Dashi-Dorzho Itigilov. He was the head of Buryat Buddhists in the early twentieth century. He died in 1927. According to the account told here, he died seated in the lotus position, in meditation, and asked to be buried that way. In 2002, his body was exhumed. Observers reported that it was remarkably well preserved, more than seventy years after his death.

His body was brought to Ivolginsky and now rests in a special temple on the grounds. For believers, Itigilov did not simply die. They say he remains in a deep meditative state. Scientists and sceptics have offered other explanations, and the debate continues. On certain holy days, the body is shown to pilgrims, and long queues form. Whatever you believe, it is worth watching the faces of the people who come. For many of them, this is the reason for the journey.

This monastery is also a place of learning. A Buddhist university operates here, where young monks study philosophy, ritual, Tibetan language, and traditional medicine. You may see students in maroon and yellow robes crossing the courtyard with books under their arms. You may hear chanting from inside a temple. The voices are deep and steady, and they repeat for a long time. If a service is happening, you can usually stand quietly at the back. Keep your voice low and follow the lead of the people around you.

Here is the second surprise. Somewhere on these grounds, a greenhouse protects a tree linked to the Bodhi tree. That is the tree in India under which, tradition says, the Buddha reached enlightenment. Growing a tropical tree in the Siberian climate takes constant care, because winters here are long and extremely cold. For many visitors, this small, warm room is a quiet surprise among the wooden temples. It shows how much effort people put into keeping their faith alive in a harsh place.

Notice the small things as you walk. Long lines of coloured prayer flags move in the wind. White stupas stand along the paths. A stupa is a dome-shaped shrine that holds sacred objects. Inside the temples, the smell of incense and butter lamps hangs in the air. You may also see people leaving coins, sweets, or milk as offerings. Some tie white or blue scarves called khadaks to posts and railings. These scarves are a traditional sign of respect and good wishes.

A few practical notes will help you. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, especially inside the temples. Ask before you photograph people, and look for signs about photography inside the halls. Many rules here are unwritten, so watch the locals. Do not point your feet toward the altars if you sit down. And remember the open steppe weather. The sun can be strong in summer, and the wind can be sharp at any time of year. Bring a layer, even on a fine day.

As you finish your circuit, pause at a spot where you can see the whole complex at once. Look at the bright roofs against the wide sky. Look at the low hills, and the village houses around the edge. This is a working monastery in a quiet valley. It survived a century in which most places like it disappeared. Its story mixes history, belief, politics, and a mystery that people still argue about.

Now, before you leave, turn one more prayer wheel. Listen to the low rumble and the small bell, the same sound that greeted you when you arrived. Feel the wind on your face, and notice the smell of incense on your clothes. Watch the pilgrims who are still walking their slow clockwise circle. They will keep walking long after you have gone, as people here have done for generations.