Wat Prayun

On the quieter western bank of the river, a little away from the famous temples, stands an old temple gathered around a great white bell-shaped tower and a curious pond full of turtles. This is Wat Prayun, a riverside temple that rewards the short crossing with calm, fine architecture, and a gentle, local atmosphere.

The temple dates from the early nineteenth century and sits on the Thonburi side of the river, the older settlement across the water from the main royal city. Its position away from the busiest sights keeps it quieter than its famous neighbours.

Its centrepiece is a large white chedi, a bell-shaped tower holding relics, set on a terrace ringed by smaller shrines. Carefully restored in recent years, the gleaming white tower is the temple's landmark, visible from the river.

The restoration of the chedi won international recognition for its quality, a sign of the care taken to preserve the old building, and the bright white terrace is a calm, dignified space to walk around.

The temple is also known for an unusual feature: a small artificial hill and pond, long home to many turtles, which visitors traditionally feed, a quirky, much-loved corner that draws families and children.

Around the grounds stand old halls with fine decoration, including delicate work that reflects the Chinese influence common in temples of its era, when trade with China shaped Thai art and building.

Because it sits across the river and off the main trail, Wat Prayun sees far fewer visitors than the great riverside temples, so it offers a calmer, more local experience of a working Thai temple.

The crossing itself is part of the appeal: a short ferry ride over the river, with views of the water and the city, brings you to the quieter Thonburi bank and its old neighbourhoods.

The surrounding area, near one of the old bridges and a historic riverside community, has its own low-key charm, with old shophouses, markets, and other temples to discover on foot.

As a working temple, it asks for the usual respect: modest dress, quiet behaviour, and shoes removed in the halls, and the turtle pond and grounds are best enjoyed gently and without disturbing worshippers.

A few practical notes. Entry is free or a small donation; dress modestly, and reach it by a short ferry across the river or over a nearby bridge. Come in the cooler hours and combine it with a wander on the Thonburi side.

Walk the white terrace around the great chedi, pause by the turtle pond, and take in the calm of a fine temple away from the crowds. Wat Prayun is a reward for crossing the river. When you take the ferry back, the famous temples on the far bank look all the busier for the quiet you have just left.