Naltar Valley

The jeep climbs slowly. The track is rough, and the wheels throw up clouds of dust. You hold on as the vehicle rocks from side to side. Then the road turns, and the dust falls away. Pine trees stand tall on both sides. The air turns cool and clean and smells of resin. You have left the dry hills behind and entered the green of Naltar.

Naltar valley lies to the north of Gilgit. By road it is about forty kilometers from the city. The drive takes a few hours, because the track is steep, narrow, and unpaved for much of the way. Local jeeps carry most visitors up from the town of Nomal, which sits at the foot of the valley. The journey is part of the experience, and the road itself is half the adventure.

The valley sits high in the mountains. Thick forests of pine and cedar cover the slopes on either side. In summer, the meadows turn green and fill with wildflowers, and herders bring their animals up to graze. In winter, deep snow covers the whole valley and the trees stand white. The seasons here look like different worlds.

Naltar is known above all for its lakes. They lie further up the valley, past the main village, in a chain along the high ground. Their water holds strong colors, from deep blue to clear green. The color comes from minerals in the water and from the way the light meets the surface. On a still, clear day, the lakes hold a mirror image of the peaks above.

To reach the lakes, you travel beyond the village by jeep or on foot. The track is rough and climbs higher into the mountains, crossing streams along the way. Many visitors hire a local driver who knows the route and the conditions. Others choose to walk, which takes longer but lets you smell the pines and hear the forest as you go.

The valley is also home to a ski area. The Pakistan Air Force runs a ski school here, and Naltar holds some of the main ski slopes in the country. In winter, skiers come to use the long-lasting snow. The high altitude and the shape of the valley keep the snow deep and firm for many months of the year.

People live in Naltar all year round. Families keep animals and grow crops during the short summer season. You may see goats and cattle moving across the slopes, watched by children. Wooden houses stand among the trees, with stacks of firewood ready for the cold. Life here follows the seasons closely, shaped by the snow and by the brief growing time.

The air at this height is thin and cold, even in the summer months. Take it slowly when you first arrive. Walking uphill can leave you short of breath until your body adjusts to the altitude. Drink plenty of water. Bring warm clothes and a jacket, because the temperature drops fast once the sun goes down behind the peaks.

The sounds of the valley are simple ones. Wind moves through the pines with a soft rush. Water runs in the streams and the channels beside the path. Birds call from the branches above. There are few engines and little noise of any kind. For many visitors, this deep quiet is the strongest memory they carry home.

The light is best in the early morning and the late afternoon. At midday, the sun is high, and the colors of the lakes can look flat and pale. Earlier and later in the day, the low light brings out the blue and green of the water, and long shadows fall across the slopes and the peaks above.

Stay aware of the weather at all times. Mountain conditions can change very quickly here. Clouds may move in within an hour, and rain or snow can fall with little warning, even in the warm months. Ask local people about the conditions before you travel further up the valley. They read the sky and the signs well, and their advice is worth following.

Plan your visit with care. There are few shops and little fuel once you leave Nomal, so carry what you need with you. Simple guesthouses and camping spots are available in the valley for those who wish to stay the night. A night here, far from any town, lets you watch the sky fill with stars.

When you stand by one of the lakes, the city feels very far away. The water is still. The peaks rise on every side. For a moment, there is only the cold air and the color of the water in front of you. Naltar asks nothing of you here. It simply lets you stop, and look, and breathe.